When we were planning our Northern Kyushu road trip, we weren’t totally sold on visiting all seven of Beppu’s famous “hells” (known locally as jigoku), but Umi Jigoku was never in question.
It was the one hell we knew we had to see—and honestly, that sentiment is pretty common. This landmark is easily the most popular attraction in the Beppu area.
The name Umi Jigoku means “Sea Hell,” and when you see it, you’ll understand why. The pond at the center of the grounds looks like a blue lagoon, but the steam rolling off the surface quickly reminds you it’s boiling hot and very much off-limits for swimming.
The cobalt color is so pretty–almost like someone dropped a bottle of rich turquoise dye into a natural hot spring and left it to bubble.
When you first walk in, you’ll pass a quiet pond that doesn’t seem like much—until you notice the steam vent billowing out beside it. It’s easy to miss if you’re rushing in to see the glorious Umi Jigoku, but it hints at the underground energy rumbling just beneath your feet.
From there, you’ll head through a very well-stocked gift shop (this is Japan, after all), and if you’re anything like me, you’ll want to slow down here.
They sell everything from Oita-made bath salts and spicy condiments to cute demon-themed merch based on Beppu’s famous hot springs.
This is also where you’ll find the café—you should definitely make a pit stop there too. We grabbed a hell-steamed egg (cooked using the natural geothermal steam) and a bright blue ice cream soda float that matched the Umi Jigoku water almost exactly.
I’m sure you’re curious about the hard-boiled egg. I sure was before I visited. It tasted exactly like you’d think. Like a hard-boiled egg. The shell smelled a bit like sulfur, but the egg? Nothing out of the ordinary!
There are shaded picnic tables outside, perfect for a quick break before diving into the main event.
Once you exit the shop, you’re face-to-face with Umi Jigoku itself.
It’s dramatic, peaceful, and extremely photogenic. You can take it in at eye level or head up the stairs into the small museum building, which has a balcony for a bird’s-eye view.
Once you’re done gawking at the main pool, walk the grounds a bit. On one side, there’s a small orange-colored hot spring just a few steps up a small hill. On the other side, you’ll find a little hillside shrine with a path of bright red torii gates leading up to it.
Before you leave, take a moment to soak your feet at the footbath near the entrance!
The water is hot. Like, trick-your-mind-into-thinking-it’s-not-hot hot… but it’s the perfect way to end your visit, especially if you’re in no rush to be anywhere!
If you only have time for one of Beppu’s hells, make it Umi Jigoku. It’s beautiful, bizarre, and full of unexpected little joys.
Our favorite moments were people-watching (you’ll likely see lots of cute elderly people visiting!), enjoying the hot footbaths, and debating on what cute demon-themed souvenirs to buy.
Should You Get the Beppu Hells Pass?
If you’re thinking about checking out Beppu’s famous hot spring “hells,” you’ll likely come across the Jigoku Meguri Pass. This pass gets you access to all seven of the official Beppu hells.
Most travelers opt for one of two options:
- The Jigoku Meguri Pass by itself (perfect if you’ve rented a car, like we did)
- A sightseeing bus tour that comes with a Jigoku Meguri pass included (ideal for people who’ve arrived by train).
If you’re based in Beppu without your own wheels, the bus-inclusive option simplifies everything and gets you to all the sites in about 2.5 to 3 hours on a loop tour.
In my opinion, the pass is a solid value if you’re excited to see all seven of the hells, especially if it’s your first time ever seeing geothermal activity up close.
But if you’ve been to places like Yellowstone National Park or other parts of the world where bubbling, steaming, sulfur-scented pits are part of the landscape, then not all of Beppu’s hells are going to blow your mind. Some are quirky and colorful, others feel a little like filler.
Personally, we opted not to do all seven. We focused our time on the two that consistently get the most buzz: the bright and blue Umi Jigoku (“Sea Hell”) and the rusty red Chinoike Jigoku (“Blood Pond Hell”).
Both were impressive and worth the visit, and skipping the rest gave us more time to enjoy the hot spring culture in other ways, like using public footbaths, trying the iconic hell-steamed restaurant, and just relaxing in our private onsen at the ryokan.
So, my recommendation? If you’re curious and want the full experience, go for the pass. But if you’re short on time or you’ve seen similar geothermal sites before, pick one or two of the standouts and skip the rest.
Planning Your Trip To Japan?
Here are a few other useful travel guides to help you plan the perfect trip to Japan.
Kyushu Region
- 10 Reasons Kyushu Is Japan’s Best-Kept Secret: Volcanoes, Onsen, and More!
- 7 Best Ryokans In Beppu, Japan (With Private Onsen)
- 10 Amazing Onsen Towns In Japan To Visit On Your Next Trip
