During our two-day stay in the Beppu and Oita area as part of our week-long Northern Kyushu road trip, we knew we didn’t need to see all seven of the famous “hells.”
We handpicked just two: Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell) and Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell), simply because they looked the most unique and photo-worthy—and honestly, we have zero regrets.
Chinoike Jigoku (“Blood Pond Hell”) is exactly what it sounds like: a rusty red, steaming hot pond that has a name that’s scarier than it really is. It’s actually Japan’s oldest natural jigoku, filled with red-colored mud and mineral-rich water that gets its color from iron oxide.
When you arrive at Blood Pond Jigoku, you will find demons everywhere! The demon decor was honestly quite cute and added to the “hellish” feel of this already-unique landmark.
Chinoike Jigoku is way less crowded than Umi Jigoku, which makes the whole experience feel way more peaceful. While we were there, there must have been fewer than 20 other people there.
There’s a short staircase to the left of the souvenir stand (dedicated to selling the famous Blood Pond Ointment) that leads to a higher photo spot—definitely worth the quick climb for a different perspective of the blood-red pond.
Bring some bug spray if you’re going to climb up the staircase! There were already mosquitoes out and about during our visit in mid-May.
One of the most enjoyable aspects of visiting Chinoike was the gift shop, which is truly in a league of its own. Everything inside leans hard into the hell and demon theme, from T-shirts with cartoon red devils to onsen towels draped around their necks, fiery snack packs, and locally made cosmetics all stamped with mischievous oni faces.
Even the souvenir confectionery boxes featured cartoon demons, making them cute to you but sure to elicit some confused looks from the gift recipient.
This gift shop was easily one of the more creative and cohesive souvenir shops we’ve seen in Japan—and certainly the kind of place where you’ll spend more time than expected!
There’s even an educational 3D model of the hot spring pool inside the gift shop that shows you just how deep this “hell” really goes. From the surface, all you see is the rust-red water and steam, but it turns out the pond is more than 30 meters deep. You’d never guess it just from looking at it!
Once you’ve explored the grounds, relax at the spacious foot bath area, where you can soak your feet while taking in the view.
Be sure to stop and appreciate its local claim to fame: the Chinoike Ointment, a quirky little bottle of “blood pond water” that people swear by for everything from bug bites to cleaning wounds to household use.
We didn’t buy it, but I had a few itchy bites on my ankles from walking up the hill and decided to test their sample spray on the bites. Not gonna lie—the itching vanished. This stuff might actually be worth bringing home if you’ve bought a checked luggage!
If you’re picking just a couple of Beppu’s hells to visit, Chinoike deserves a spot on your list—for the dramatic visuals, the chance to say “bloody hell!” (pun intended), and one of the most entertaining souvenir shops in Beppu.
Should You Get the Beppu Hells Pass?
If you’re thinking about checking out Beppu’s famous hot spring “hells,” you’ll likely come across the Jigoku Meguri Pass. This pass gets you access to all seven of the official Beppu hells.
Most travelers opt for one of two options:
- The Jigoku Meguri Pass by itself (perfect if you’ve rented a car, like we did)
- A sightseeing bus tour that comes with a Jigoku Meguri pass included (ideal for people who’ve arrived by train).
If you’re based in Beppu without your own wheels, the bus-inclusive option simplifies everything and gets you to all the sites in about 2.5 to 3 hours on a loop tour.
In my opinion, the pass is a solid value if you’re excited to see all seven of the hells, especially if it’s your first time ever seeing geothermal activity up close.
But if you’ve been to places like Yellowstone National Park or other parts of the world where bubbling, steaming, sulfur-scented pits are part of the landscape, then not all of Beppu’s hells are going to blow your mind. Some are quirky and colorful, others feel a little like filler.
Personally, we opted not to do all seven. We focused our time on the two that consistently get the most buzz: the bright and blue Umi Jigoku (“Sea Hell”) and the rusty red Chinoike Jigoku (“Blood Pond Hell”).
Both were impressive and worth the visit, and skipping the rest gave us more time to enjoy the hot spring culture in other ways, like using public footbaths, trying the iconic hell-steamed restaurant, and just relaxing in our private onsen at the ryokan.
My recommendation? If you’re curious and want the full experience, go for the pass. But if you’re short on time or you’ve seen geothermal sites before, pick one or two of the standouts and skip the rest.
Planning Your Trip To Japan?
Here are a few other useful travel guides to help you plan the perfect trip to Japan.
Kyushu Region
- 10 Reasons Kyushu Is Japan’s Best-Kept Secret: Volcanoes, Onsen, and More!
- 7 Best Ryokans In Beppu, Japan (With Private Onsen)
- How To Spend A Perfect Day At Yufuin Onsen, Japan
- 10 Amazing Onsen Towns In Japan To Visit On Your Next Trip
